The enthronement of the Bariba king
We’re in Natitingou, a town in northwest Benin, capital of the Atacora department. 32 ethnic groups speaking 32 dialects meet in this crossroads town between Togo, Burkina-Faso, Niger and Benin.
Tonight, the main artery is strangely clogged. The cars plod along in a bluish haze of exhaust fumes that mixes with the russet dust of the Harmattan. A few impatient people honk their car horns.
The Zemidjan – clever moped cabs – travel with greater ease and are treated to an exceptional spectacle: we are blocked by a dozen riders on richly adorned horses parading slowly in line in front of the cars.
Suddenly, the riders turn left and disappear into the night, freeing the cars. Rumors of an important event spread through Natitingou: the Baribas had chosen their chief, and the Gaani ceremony would take place the next day to enthrone the new king!
A report that scratches the surface of the Arabian horse tradition in Black Africa…
Tarek Charara
Text and images © 2004 Tarek Charara/Kaleidos images.
All rights reserved.
Fanfares
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of Bariba. The traditional Gaani festival. The fanfares of the different chiefs present at the enthronement celebration of the King of Baribas.
Souleiman Gnora
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of Bariba. The traditional Gaani festival. Here, Souleiman Gnora and his horse.
The “Chief Butcher” of Djougou
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of Bariba. The traditional Gaani festival. The “Chief Butcher” of Djougou. The “Chief Butcher” is the second most important person in Djougou after the king.
The speech
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of Bariba. The nephew of the king of Kuandé gives a speech. His Majesty the King of Kuandé, Ouorou Sourou Bagana II, dressed in green, is seated in the place of honor in the background.
Father Chambiéni
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of Bariba. Father Chambiéni is welcomed, as is customary, with a bowl of water.
Prince Moussa Atta
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of Bariba. The traditional Gaani festival. Prince Moussa Atta of Djougou.
Dancing to the rhythm
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of Bariba. The traditional Gaani festival. The riders make their horses dance to the rhythm of the drums. The horse comes down from a bow.
The guests danse
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of Bariba. The traditional Gaani festival. The guests also dance to the sound of the drums.
Parade
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of Bariba. The traditional Gaani festival. The riders parade in front of the guests.
Prince Moussa Atta
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of Bariba. The traditional Gaani festival. Prince Moussa Atta of Djougou makes his horse dance to the sound of the Tams-Tams.
Bowing while dancing
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of Bariba. The traditional Gaani festival. The horse bows while dancing from one foot to the other.
The horsemen
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of Bariba. The traditional Gaani festival at the Natitingou stadium.
Bazénon from Djougou
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of Bariba. The traditional Gaani festival. Bazenon and his horse. Handcrafted hackamore and the beginning of metal reins.
The horsemen
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of Bariba. The traditional Gaani festival. Riders and their horses.
The king
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of Bariba. The king of Bariba, El Hadji Immoro Al Assane.
The king
Natitingou, Bénin. Intronisation du roi des Bariba. Le roi des Bariba, El Hadji Immoro Al Assane entouré de dames de cour et de ses amis, Bou Kari Bako (à droite du roi) et Pedro Bouni. Le roi des Bariba, El Hadji Immoro Al Assane et des dames de la cour.