The enthronement of the Bariba king

We’re in Natitingou, a town in northwest Benin, capital of the Atacora department. 32 ethnic groups speaking 32 dialects meet in this crossroads town between Togo, Burkina-Faso, Niger and Benin.

Tonight, the main artery is strangely clogged. The cars plod along in a bluish haze of exhaust fumes that mixes with the russet dust of the Harmattan. A few impatient people honk their car horns.

The Zemidjan – clever moped cabs – travel with greater ease and are treated to an exceptional spectacle: we are blocked by a dozen riders on richly adorned horses parading slowly in line in front of the cars.

Suddenly, the riders turn left and disappear into the night, freeing the cars. Rumors of an important event spread through Natitingou: the Baribas had chosen their chief, and the Gaani ceremony would take place the next day to enthrone the new king!

A report that scratches the surface of the Arabian horse tradition in Black Africa…

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Tarek Charara

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Text and images © 2004 Tarek Charara/Kaleidos images.
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