The enthronement of the Bariba king
We’re in Natitingou, a town in northwest Benin, capital of the Atacora department. 32 ethnic groups speaking 32 dialects meet in this crossroads town between Togo, Burkina-Faso, Niger and Benin.
This evening, the main artery is strangely clogged. Cars inch along in a bluish haze of exhaust fumes that mixes with the russet dust of the Harmattan. A few impatient drivers honk their horns.
The Zemidjan – clever moped cabs – travel with greater ease and are treated to an exceptional spectacle: we are blocked by a dozen riders on richly adorned horses parading slowly in line in front of the cars.
Suddenly, the horsemen turn left and disappear into the night, freeing the carriages. Word of an important event spreads through Natitingou: the Baribas have chosen their chief, and the Gaani ceremony will take place the next day to enthrone the new king!
A report that scratches the surface of the Arabian horse tradition in Black Africa…
Tarek Charara
Text and images © Tarek Charara/Kaleidos images.
All rights reserved.
Drums set the tempo
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of the Bariba. The traditional Gaani festival. Riders dance their horses to the rhythm of the drums. The horse dismounts with a bow.
Prince Moussa Atta
Enthronement of the Bariba king. The traditional Gaani festival. Prince Moussa Atta of Djougou.
Fanfares
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of the Bariba. The traditional Gaani festival. The brass bands of the various chiefs present at the enthronement of the King of the Baribas.
Bazénon, a rider from Djougou
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of the Bariba. The traditional Gaani festival. Bazénon and his horse. Handcrafted hackamore with metal reins.
Lady of the court
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of the Bariba. A court lady.
Home
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of the Bariba. Father Chambiéni is welcomed with a bowl of water, as is the custom.
The “Chef Boucher” of Djougou
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of the Bariba. The traditional Gaani festival. The “Chef Boucher” of Djougou. The “Chef Boucher” is the second most important person in Djougou after the king.
Dancing curves
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of the Bariba. The traditional Gaani festival. The horse bows while dancing from one foot to the other.
Set
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of the Bariba. The traditional Gaani festival. The horses’ ornaments are all made by the riders themselves. Here, bottle caps are used for decoration. The hackamore is made by local artisans.
The speech
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of the Bariba. The nephew of the King of Kuandé makes a speech. His Majesty the King of Kuandé, Ouorou Sourou Bagana II, dressed in green, sits in the place of honor in the background.
The riders
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of the Bariba. The traditional Gaani festival at the Natitingou stadium.
The riders
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of the Bariba. The traditional Gaani festival. Riders and their horses.
Souleiman Gnora
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of the Bariba. The traditional Gaani festival. Here, Souleiman Gnora and his horse.
Parade in front of the guests
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of the Bariba. The traditional Gaani festival. Riders parade before the guests.
The King
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of the Bariba. The King of the Bariba, El Hadji Immoro Al Assane.
Prince Moussa Atta
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of the Bariba. The traditional Gaani festival. Prince Moussa Atta of Djougou dances his horse to the sound of Tams-Tams.
Celebration
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of the Bariba. Young and old are part of the festivities.
The King
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of the Bariba. The King of the Bariba, El Hadji Immoro Al Assane, surrounded by court ladies and his friends, Bou Kari Bako (on the King’s right) and Pedro Bouni. The King of the Bariba, El Hadji Immoro Al Assane and ladies of the court.
Guests dance
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of the Bariba. The traditional Gaani festival. Guests also dance to the sound of drums.
