The enthronement of the Bariba king
We’re in Natitingou, a town in northwest Benin, capital of the Atacora department. 32 ethnic groups speaking 32 dialects meet in this crossroads town between Togo, Burkina-Faso, Niger and Benin.
This evening, the main artery is strangely clogged. Cars inch along in a bluish haze of exhaust fumes that mixes with the russet dust of the Harmattan. A few impatient drivers honk their horns.
The Zemidjan – clever moped cabs – travel with greater ease and are treated to an exceptional spectacle: we are blocked by a dozen riders on richly adorned horses parading slowly in line in front of the cars.
Suddenly, the horsemen turn left and disappear into the night, freeing the carriages. Word of an important event spreads through Natitingou: the Baribas have chosen their chief, and the Gaani ceremony will take place the next day to enthrone the new king!
A report that scratches the surface of the Arabian horse tradition in Black Africa…
Tarek Charara
Text and images © Tarek Charara/Kaleidos images.
All rights reserved.
Fanfares
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of Bariba. The traditional Gaani festival. The fanfares of the different chiefs present at the enthronement celebration of the King of Baribas.
Dancing to the rhythm
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of Bariba. The traditional Gaani festival. The riders make their horses dance to the rhythm of the drums. The horse comes down from a bow.
The horsemen
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of Bariba. The traditional Gaani festival at the Natitingou stadium.
Bazénon from Djougou
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of Bariba. The traditional Gaani festival. Bazenon and his horse. Handcrafted hackamore and the beginning of metal reins.
Prince Moussa Atta
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of Bariba. The traditional Gaani festival. Prince Moussa Atta of Djougou.
The speech
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of Bariba. The nephew of the king of Kuandé gives a speech. His Majesty the King of Kuandé, Ouorou Sourou Bagana II, dressed in green, is seated in the place of honor in the background.
Court lady
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of Bariba. A court lady.
Prince Moussa Atta
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of Bariba. The traditional Gaani festival. Prince Moussa Atta of Djougou makes his horse dance to the sound of the Tams-Tams.
The “Chief Butcher” of Djougou
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of Bariba. The traditional Gaani festival. The “Chief Butcher” of Djougou. The “Chief Butcher” is the second most important person in Djougou after the king.
Father Chambiéni
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of Bariba. Father Chambiéni is welcomed, as is customary, with a bowl of water.
The horsemen
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of Bariba. The traditional Gaani festival. Riders and their horses.
Celebration
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of Bariba. Young and old are celebrating.
Bowing while dancing
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of Bariba. The traditional Gaani festival. The horse bows while dancing from one foot to the other.
The guests danse
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of Bariba. The traditional Gaani festival. The guests also dance to the sound of the drums.
Decoration
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of Bariba. The traditional Gaani festival. The horse adornments are all made by the riders themselves. Here, bottle caps were used for decoration. The hackamore is locally made.
The king
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of Bariba. The king of Bariba, El Hadji Immoro Al Assane.
The king
Natitingou, Bénin. Intronisation du roi des Bariba. Le roi des Bariba, El Hadji Immoro Al Assane entouré de dames de cour et de ses amis, Bou Kari Bako (à droite du roi) et Pedro Bouni. Le roi des Bariba, El Hadji Immoro Al Assane et des dames de la cour.
Parade
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of Bariba. The traditional Gaani festival. The riders parade in front of the guests.
Souleiman Gnora
Natitingou, Benin. Enthronement of the King of Bariba. The traditional Gaani festival. Here, Souleiman Gnora and his horse.
