The horsemen of Djougou
They are traders in exotic products, company directors, schoolteachers and truck drivers. They’re all different, yet they share a common passion: Arabian horses. We are in Djougou, a small crossroads town in northwest Benin, forty kilometers from the Togo border and four hundred kilometers from Cotonou, Benin’s economic capital.
Legend has it that pagan Arab tribes fled Mecca when it was Islamized. They crossed Egypt, Ethiopia, Somalia, Sudan, Nigeria… In Benin, they established their kingdom in the central Nikki region.
They are commonly known as “Bariba”, which means “many horses” in Dendi, a dialect of Niger. Islam caught up with them and today they are Muslims, Christians and animists. They have kept their passion for the Arabian horse. For them, the horse is part of their family, their tradition and even their identity.
There is no horse breeding in Benin; stallions are bought in Niger…
When there’s a festival, the riders organize a Gaani. There is at least one big Gaani a year: on the Prophet Mohammed’s birthday. Gaanis are also held to mark the election of kings and other important events in the lives of horsemen.
Gaani, the word meaning joy or victory, is the African version of Morocco’s Fantasia. It’s a custom straight from Arabia. Riders and their richly adorned Dongola horses perform choreographed routines to the sound of tom-toms, while mock battles are played out, followed by cavalcades and dressage demonstrations.
Recently, the riders have organized themselves into an association: their president is the son of a former French President.
The photos presented in this report cover a wide range and focus on the integration of the horse into the daily lives of these men (there are no women riders yet), training, horse transport, Gaani, racing, etc….
Click here to see all the photos
Tarek Charara
Text and images © Tarek Charara/Kaleidos images.
All rights reserved.
Le roi et sa cour – The king and his court
Djougou, Benin. Gaani Festival. The King of Djougou, El Hadj Issifou Kpeitoni Koda VI, and his court are seated in the stands. The Gaani festival can begin.
Le roi – The king
Djougou, Benin. Gaani Festival. The King of Djougou, Issifou Kpeitoni Koda VI, on his traditional tour of the town to celebrate the Prophet Mohammed’s birthday. A number of stops are scheduled before he reaches the Place de la Gaani, where the equestrian shows will take place.
Accident de parcours – Accident along the way
Djougou, Benin. Race day. Sometimes horses slip…
La course – The race
Djougou, Benin. Race day. The race is run in waves of four horses. The winner of each wave qualifies for the next race. Here just before the finish line.
Griots
Djougou, Benin. Gaani festival. Griots and their drums announce visitors arriving at the royal palace in Djougou. Each family has its own specific rhythm, known to the griots. A few let themselves go to the rhythm of the drums and dance.
Dans la cour – In the courtyard
Djougou, Benin. Gaani festival. In the entrance courtyard of the royal palace in Djougou. People await the king’s exit, some dancing to the rhythm of the drums.
Decorations – Decorations
Djougou, Benin. Decorations for horses are made with great care by the riders and their wives. Here, Rafiou Owoni-Fari and his wife present the decorations for their horse.
Creation des décorations – Creating the decorations
Souleiman Gnora, Prince of Djougou, like all Djougou riders, makes his own accessories and decorations for his horse.
Le tour – The tour
Djougou, Benin. Gaani Festival. The King of Djougou, Issifou Kpeitoni Koda VI, on his traditional tour of the town to celebrate the Prophet Mohammed’s birthday. A number of stops are scheduled before he reaches the Place de la Gaani, where the equestrian shows will take place.
Mohammed Traoré
Djougou, Benin. Mohammed Traoré is the chief butcher, second only to the King of Djougou, who removes the hard straw from the hay.
Danda au galop – Danda galloping
Djougou, Benin. Prince Moussa Atta prepares to take part in the next Gaani with his horse, a Danda. Horses with a light or white spot on their forehead are called “Danda”. Part of this preparation involves galloping Danda, who is ridden by Moussa Atta’s nephew.
Le roi – The king
Djougou, Benin. The King of Djougou, El Hadj Issifou Kpeitoni Koda VI, on his throne.
Suleiman Gnora
Djougou, Benin. The Gaani festival: riders and their horses show off their talents to an enthusiastic audience. Here, Suleiman Gnora and his Fourdé at full gallop.
Joie – Joy
Djougou, Benin. Gaani festival. The Gaani is about to begin, with Djougou riders and their horses showing off their talents. The children are overjoyed.
Accidents may happen – Des accidents peuvent survenir
Djougou, Benin. Race day. The race is run in waves of four horses. The winner of each wave qualifies for the next race. Here just before the finish line.
Gallop – Gallop
Djougou. Benin. Rafiou Owoni-Fari’s Danda needs to be exercised before being washed. Horses are washed after a good gallop.
Rachid Fousséni
Djougou, Benin. Gaani Festival: riders and their horses show off their talents to an enthusiastic audience. Here, eight-year-old Rachid, the youngest rider in Djougou, and his Fourdé. The horse does a Viennese bow.
Devant le palais – In front of the palace
Djougou, Benin. Under the palaver tree in front of the royal palace in Djougou. Crowds have gathered to await the arrival of the riders and the King of Djougou. Peddlers offer drinks and snacks.
Rachid Fousséni
Djougou, Benin. The Gaani festival. Rachidou, eight years old and the youngest rider in Djougou, and his Fourdé. Dancing, bowing and drumming.
Orage surprise – Surprise storm
Djougou, Benin. Gaani Festival. The crowd has gathered at Place de la Gaani to await the arrival of the king and his horsemen. Suddenly, the weather turns stormy.
Devant le palais – In front of the palace
Djougou, Benin. In front of the royal palace in Djougou. On horseback, the vision goes beyond the walls.
Dans l’étable – In the stable
Djougou, Benin. Rafiou Owoni-Fari’s horse in its stable. It’s a “Danda”, a horse with a light or white spot on its forehead.
Creation des décorations – Creating the decorations
Djougou, Benin. Souleiman Gnora, Prince of Djougou, tries out the decorations – which he made himself, on his horse, Fourdé.
Danda is stubborn
Ouassa Péhunco, Benin. Moussa Atta tries to get his horse, Danda, into the truck that will transport him to Djougou. Danda, like all horses, is shy and therefore reluctant to get on the truck.
La coupe – The cup
Djougou, Benin. Riders’ meeting in the stable of Kongoro, one of the horses of the president of the Djougou riders’ association. This year, a cup will be given to the winner of the race.
Le gagnant – The winner
Djougou, Benin. Race day. The winner, Souleiman Gnora, is sprayed with talcum powder.
Spectateurs – Spectators
Djougou, Benin. Race day. A huge pile of firewood serves as a spectator stand.
Meeting of the horsemen – Réunion des cavaliers
Djougou, Benin. The Djougou riders have set up their headquarters at the home of Moussolomi T. Congacou, president of their association.
Dancers – Danseurs
Djougou, Benin. Gaani festival. Troops of dancers arrive in front of the royal palace for the Gaani festival.
Lucky charms – Lucky charms
Ouassa Pehunco, Benin. Moussa Atta in front of his talismans or grigris hanging in his living room. Each rider has his own personal talismans.
